Attaching legs to floor units
Insert all the legs in the sockets at the base of all the floor units; make sure they are all the same length – 150 mm
Levelling and installing floor units
Put the floor units in place, starting with the corner unit. Place the next unit beside the corner unit and attach it with chipboard screws (8 mm x 30 mm). Make sure it’s level and adjust the legs if necessary. Keep repeating this step until all the floor units are in place.
Attaching decorative side panels to pre-assembled units
Attach a side panel between the units when you get to the unit under the lab sink and also on both sides of the grocery cupboard. Before attaching the side panel to the carcass, cut out a 150 mm x 70 mm rectangle to allow for the kickplate, as well as an indentation to allow for the skirting board on the opposite side. Don’t cut the side panels that will go right at the end of your cupboards, except to allow for the skirting board.
Installing the grocery cupboard
Before attaching the grocery cupboard to the rest of the floor units, screw mounting plates at the top corners (6 mm x 40 mm screws). Drill a pilot hole in the centre hole of the mounting plates on the long side. Attach the unit to the wall with 6 mm x 75 mm wall plugs and screws. Then attach mounting plates to the top corners of all the wall units.
Attaching the wall unit to the grocery cupboard
Attach the microwave unit to the base of the wall unit that you altered, before hanging it next to the grocery cupboard. Attach a side panel to the wall unit.
Levelling and completing wall unit installation
Position the wall unit next to the wall corner unit before hanging it. Use crates and offcut timber to help keep the unit in place when attaching it to the wall with 6 mm x 75 mm wall plugs and screws. (Always use a spirit level to make sure units stay level.) Attach the relevant side panel and display unit to the ends of these joined-together wall units.
Applying edging strips to worktops
Use contact adhesive to attach the edging strips to all exposed sides of the tops. Apply the adhesive to the tops and the edging strips and let it dry for about 15 minutes before sticking. Use a rubber mallet to secure it in place. Remove the excess edging by repeatedly hammering gently on it with the mallet until it snaps off on the front and back edges. Finish the edges off with a fine file.
Installing the worktops
Using screws, attach a postform top joiner to the short side of one of the 800 mm lengths of the tops that meet up in the corner. Cut the excess off with a hacksaw. Position all the tops in place and secure them with screws (8 mm x 30 mm) from inside the cupboards.
Attaching hinges to all doors
Attach hinges to all the doors with 8 mm x 16 mm chipboard screws.
Hanging cupboard doors
Now attach the door hinges to the inside of the cupboards.
Installing front panels on all drawers
Again using the offcut timber at the base of the cupboard (see Tip B), first attach the bottom drawer front. Then use the handle screws as spacers for the next drawer fronts beforescrewing them in place.
Attaching all handles
Drill holes for the handle screws and attach the handles with screws from the inside
Measure and cut the kickplates. Screw them in place from the inside of the cupboards. Then cover all screws with self-adhesive screw caps.
We made a knotty pine splashback. We cut 12 mm chipboard to fit against the wall behind the sink and screwed it to the wall. We measured and cut the knotty pine to fit and stuck it to the chipboard with No More Nails. We added a pine moulding at the top to finish it off and painted it white with NuGlo waterbased enamel.